Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.